Stitches Of Chikankari

Chikankari is traditionally done by hand and requires immense skill and patience. The stitches are embroidered on fabric, often cotton or silk, using a needle and fine thread. The intricate designs include floral motifs, paisleys, vines, and geometric patterns. The stitches used in Chikankari form the core of the design and can vary depending on the desired texture and effect.

Here are some popular stitches of chikankari

Bulbul Chasm (Bird’s Eye Stitch)

The Bulbul Chasm stitch, also known as the Bird’s Eye stitch, is another key element in Chikankari embroidery. It is typically used to create delicate and intricate motifs. The stitch is often used to make small circular motifs that resemble an eye or a bead.

Tepchi (Running Stitch)

The Tepchi is one of the simplest yet most commonly used stitches in Chikankari. It’s similar to the running stitch and is used to form linear patterns such as straight lines, borders, and outlines. The stitch is worked in rows, with each stitch slightly overlapping the previous one. Tepchi is often used as the foundation stitch in various Chikankari designs, helping to fill in larger areas or create continuous patterns.

Kadhai (Chain Stitch)

The Kadhai stitch, or chain stitch, is an essential part of the Chikankari tradition. This stitch is used to form continuous loops or chains that can outline shapes, form borders, or create intricate patterns.

To create Kadhai, the needle is passed through the fabric, and the thread is looped over itself to create a series of connected loops. This stitch is often used in combination with other stitches to add definition and structure to a design. Kadhai is also often used to outline flowers or motifs, providing a clean, polished finish.

Bakhiya (Shadow Work)

One of the most unique and distinguishing elements of Chikankari is the Bakhiya or shadow work stitch. This technique is used to create patterns that appear in the background while allowing the fabric to show through the stitches.

To execute Bakhiya, the base fabric is embroidered using small, delicate stitches on the reverse side. The result is a subtle, almost ethereal pattern on the front of the fabric that looks like a shadow. This technique adds an intricate depth to the design and is often used to fill larger areas with intricate floral or geometric patterns.

Shisha (Mirror Work)

The Shisha stitch, also known as mirror work, is a special technique used to attach small pieces of mirrors to the fabric. This type of embroidery involves sewing a mirror or reflective surface onto the fabric using small stitches.

Shisha is often used in more traditional or festive Chikankari pieces, such as sarees, dupattas, and lehengas, where the mirror pieces are incorporated into floral patterns or used as accents in the design. The mirrors catch the light, adding a dynamic, sparkling element to the embroidery.

Chikankari is an art form that has stood the test of time, thanks to the skill of artisans and the enduring appeal of its intricate stitches. Each stitch in Chikankari, from the delicate Phanda to the bold Kadhai, plays a crucial role in the design and overall aesthetic of the piece. The diversity of stitches in Chikankari allows for endless creative possibilities, making it a versatile and treasured tradition.